All Roads Lead to Santiago de Compostela

 

We spent only one day in Santiago de Compostela, traveling there by bus from Porto. We originally intended to rent a car in Porto, but it would have cost hundreds of dollars more to rent there and leave the car in Bilbao, Spain, rather than renting in Spain. We chose the bus over the train, because we would have had to change trains in Vigo, and the bus went directly to Porto. The website claimed the bus had wifi and a toilet, but in fact it did not. We were a bit worried when we stopped half-way through the 3.5 hour ride and were given only five minutes as a rest stop--but we managed. You have to be flexible when you travel.

Having met someone who walked the Camino de Santiago and having seen the touching Martin Sheen film, "The Way," years ago, we were familiar with its history. There is no single camino though, but instead multiple routes, beginning in Spain, France, Portugal, and Italy. It began as a Christian pilgrimage in the 9th Century. Although at first only the most religious walked the route, in the 20th Century, especially in the 1990s, walking the camino became an undertaking that people did for various reasons, not only for spiritual ones, but also as a challenge or to learn something about themselves. Every pilgrim has a personal reason to pursue "the Way of St. James."

The symbol of the pilgrimage is the scallop shell, which walkers wear and which marks the route with signs emblazoned with the shell. Monica gave us shells in Porto as a memento, although we are not walking. We met two Kiwis from Wellington, New Zealand, on her tour who had the shells embroidered on their backpacks, although they only intended to walk the last section. (I wonder how those who walk the long routes--the longest is nearly 600 miles) feel about those who only walk a few.)

 

The manhole covers in Santiago also bear the shell markings.

The scallop shell theme dates back centuries and represents rebirth. Apparently, early pilgrims also used the shell to drink water and broth along the route to the Cathedral of St. James, the apostle whose remains are said to be in the church.

We began our day in Santiago with a hearty lunch. We sat at a restaurant table outside watching the pilgrims pass, scrutinizing them to guess whether they were true pilgrims who had journeyed from afar, or whether they were day-pilgrims who merely walked a few miles. We thought we could tell from the dust on the clothing and the fatigue on the faces. (I regret not having photographed any.) But the meal was satisfying. Kevin enjoyed a beer with his paella, and I sipped a glass of authentic Spanish sangria with my Spanish-style lasagna.

After I ate and went inside to use the baño, I almost wished we had eaten inside, because the restaurant interior was so attractive.

Completely satisfied with our meal, we wandered down the street to the cathedral. 

It must have been magical to ancient pilgrims to enter into that stunning interior after their long walk. In the past, many walked on their knees as they entered the sacred space, so great was their devotion.

Behind the altar is a bust of St. James that the pilgrims hug or touch when they complete their journey. We did not go there, out of respect for those for whom it is truly meaningful. We did see the botafumeiro, the huge incense ball that swings dramatically across the cathedral, but it was not lit and in use when we were there. It's only lit on Christian holidays or when someone makes a significant offering.

Outside, Kevin took a photograph for some visitors in front of a carving of the scallop shell on the facade, and they reciprocated by taking a picture of him.

Our brief stay in Santiago provided a brief respite from our travel, and it was both interesting and pleasurable. But I have another pilgrimage in mind: for me, this trip to Spain is centered on exploring caves with ancient rock paintings. And that was to start the following day.

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